Hotel Review: One Aldwych, London

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Does a stay during Covent Garden hotel One Aldwych move down a residence like a good Theatreland show? Good Things editor Zoe Perrett finds out…

Following a requisite ‘LB flopping onto a bed’ photograph, we join him for a afternoon snooze though that it’s unfit to do a hotel examination full justice. The attempt reveals a pivotal fact: in a Executive Room during One Aldwych, we’ve been propitious adequate to trap an fugitive Goldilocks bed.

Deluxe Room

A Goldilocks bed: we know – not too soft, not too firm, juuuust right. So right, in fact, that we finish us carrying to pull behind a cooking reservation due to oversleeping. Of course, it’s no problem. In a five-star hotel like One Aldwych, zero is a problem.

Whilst LB calls for an iron to deliver his suitcase-wrinkled shirt, we perform a ‘curious hotel guest’ routine: flipping by a channels on a immeasurable flatscreen television; mentally calculating how many days’ clothes I’d need in sequence to do a sizeable habit justice; sniffing a uninformed flowers delivered daily to any room; scoping out Theatreland from a sixth-floor window.

Suite

Spying dual slim potion jars of epicurean nuts in a well-stocked minibar and fearing for LB’s appetite, we quickly tighten a doorway and position a image of glossy red apples rather some-more prominently on a desk.

His ’n’ hers sinks are a outrageous bonus when rapid willingness is of a hint – as is a participation of both a showering apartment and a bath. The latter is positioned usually underneath a window and substantially offers a bather a really relaxing knowledge were an increasingly glitter-strewn partner not requesting her makeup a tiny feet away.

The bar’s a star

Bar

Suitably matched and booted (or bejewelled and well-heeled, depending on that one of us you’re looking at), we deplane to belligerent turn for a pre-prandial sharpener. Earlier we were shown a private Executive Lounge, niftily accessed around a dark doorway by a entrance, though it’s Friday dusk and so we opt for a hum – and live one-man rope – of a Lobby Bar.

Lobby Bar

We lay during a bar, since when a staff know their things (and here they do) we shouldn’t position yourself anywhere else. The Showtime Cocktail menu proves to be one of a many engaging drinks lists we’ve seen in ages; any of conduct barkeeper Pedro Paulo’s 17 quirky libations holding partial and portion vessel impulse from a beside West End show.

For him, a gin-based King Lear-inspired Three Reigns served in a globe-shaped potion perched on a wooden pivot (and, of course, a tiny assisting of sweet-spicy churned nuts). For me, a Mediterranean Macbeth – a formally bittersweet, rosemary-scented brew of gin, Campari, lemon and Champagne, presented on a residence alongside a integrate of pieces of parmesan.

Whilst LB Whatsapps his aged City friends to let them know a bar’s as good as it was when they’d deplane on it with shocking frequency, we ogle a objets d’art sparse around a high-ceilinged room – including a rower with an enviable oarspan and a immeasurable Dionysus conduct that also appears, in miniature, as a cocktail vessel.

That constrained cocktail list is one to work through, and we vouch to lapse on another arise to do usually that. But for now, rumbling stomachs and ticking clocks comparison tell us it’s time for dinner. Conveniently, we have to go no serve than One Aldwych’s groundwork – home to intelligent complicated Basque restaurant, Eneko.

Back to Basque

Restaurant

If a plate were a theatre show, sufficient to contend it’d move a residence down. It competence be underground, though with flowers on a walls, unconditional red-and-white banquettes and an ethereal feel, a dining room feels roughly alfresco. Slick use is ideally choreographed; interjection in no tiny partial to conduct waiter Sebastian Ros, who would certainly purify adult in any front-of-house foe he could caring to enter.

And a food. Oh, a food. Chef Eneko Atxa is unusually skilful when it comes to enlightening classical country-style cuisine into Michelin-standard transport though losing any of a heart and essence (or, indeed, flavour). It’s a ability both singular and oh-so-valuable.

Beetroot Tartare

From a rich, multilayered steep and Txakoli wine-soaked apple parfait served in a ceramic apple by to a pickled caramel mousse strewn with cookie particle and served with sheep divert ice-cream, you’d impassivity during each plate on Instagram – and, crucially, you’d also go diseased during a knees eating them.

Feeling rather full carrying eschewed a pleasing veg-based options in foster of sampling roughly each class on a menu, that Golidlocks bed is singing a summons song. Praising a grill effusively to any waiter who’ll listen, we embark on a less-than strenuous tour behind to a room.

The large breakfast
Digesting excellent food is tough work, so it’s small consternation we watchful voracious – and a discerning outing to One Aldwych’s state-of a art gym and overwhelming cobalt-coloured pool (although sadly not a lush spa) usually serves to kindle a ardour further.

It’s a happy thing, then, that breakfast is so brilliant. Taken while falling into comfy velour chairs in a mezzanine-level Indigo restaurant, it starts – as all good breakfasts should – with a pot of good clever tea.

From an almost-endless a la carte, we brew and compare ourselves a span of Full not-quite Englishes. LB goes ‘high protein’ with poached eggs, frail bacon and sausages; we start chipping divided during my five-a-day with avocado and spinach – and scrambled eggs, black pudding and crush browns for good measure.

The Scottish integrate breakfasting beside us sight over their weekend papers to tell us that One Aldwych is their go-to hotel whenever they’re in London, and we’re wholly unsurprised. From check in to check out, a stay here is zero brief of an complete pleasure.

Make it happen
Where: One Aldwych, 1 Aldwych, London WC2B 4BZ
Price: Rooms during One Aldwych start from £305 per night for a Aldwych Room, incompatible breakfast. To book call 020 7300 1000 or revisit here.

PLUS: Read Good Things’ full examination of Eneko, out in a Aug/Sept imitation issue.

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